Posted by DAVID K on June 18, 2003 at 00:52:29:
In Reply to: Re: Best way to remove the Savage rear tire posted by Richard fssnoc#4368(Ks) on June 17, 2003 at 22:11:13:
Richard, you are a night owl like me. Like an artist I cannot work until I get motivated, or should I say, get in a state of panic! I procrastinate all day and then the adrenaline sets in. Adrenaline and a shop light are my two best tools!!!!
I removed and replaced my rear wheel WITHOUT REMOVING THE SHOCKS. I even replaced with a slightly larger tire.
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REAR WHEEL REMOVAL/INSTALATION
1) Insert a drift or rod into the hole, in the left-hand side of the axle to keep the axle from turning.
2) Loosen the rear axle nut.
3) Shift the transmission into neutral
4) Place wood block(s) under the engine and frame to support the bike securely with the rear wheel off the ground.
5) Loosen the drive belt adjuster nut and loosen the adjuster bolt on each side of the swing arm so the wheel can be moved forward for maximum belt slack.
6) Completely unscrew the rear brake adjusting nut.
7) Depress the break pedal and remove the brake cable from the pivot joint in the brake arm. Install the pivot joint and adjusting nut onto the end of the cable to avoid misplacing them.
8) Remove the bolts securing the drive pulley guard and remove the guard.
9) Remove the bolt securing the drive belt lower cover at the rear.
10) Remove the bolt and washer securing the front of both the drive belt upper and lower covers at the front
11) Remove the lower cover.
12) Remove the bolt securing the drive belt upper cover at the rear.
13) Pull the drive belt upper cover up at the rear and remove the upper cover.
14) Push the rear wheel forward until it stops.
15) Carefully disengage the drive belt from the sprocket.
16) Remove the rear axle nut and washer and withdraw the rear axle from the right-hand side and lower the wheel and drive belt. Don't lose the right-hand spacer between the brake panel and the swing arm--it will fall off when the axle is withdrawn.
17) Roll the rear wheel to the rear and remove it. Don't lose the spacer on each side of the wheel hub.
CAUTION: Do not set the wheel down on the driven pulley surface as it may get damaged. Set the side walls on to wooden blocks.
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I also changed my own tire and found no need to add balance weights. I placed the YELLOW balance mark of the new tire adjacent to the valve stem. I also keyed the rubber drive lugs in the hub, in the same position as before removal. I spun the wheel on the axle (without a belt) and determined that it never stopped in the same place. I figured the static balance was good without an added weight. After driving I do not notice any out of balance.